Were it not for Testaccio market or Monte Testaccio, the extraordinary ancient Rubbish dump that rises somnolently the bottom corner of this most Roman of Roman quarters, I am pretty sure I would never have started writing a blog at all, never mind a book, or a column. So it seems absolutely fitting that nearly 13 years after arriving in Testaccio, my first proper tour, alongside my friend and inimitable tour guide Agnes Crawford, is of the market and dump.
The plan is as follows, Agnes and I shall be leading you through the Testaccio market, visiting some of my favourite stalls and learning some technical tricks on taming puntarelle: every Roman’s favourite winter salad. We shall discuss the area’s social and culinary history, and nibble on fried goodies with a glass of something fizzy before a wander through the former (cleaned up!) abattoir.
We also have specially arranged access to the usually closed Monte Testaccio where we shall crunch our way over the shards of broken terra-cotta pots for a unique view of the city and a chat about the numbers and types of pots beneath our feet, and why they had to be thrown away. Appetites suitably sharpened, we will repair to a small trattoria off the usual food tour route for a festive lunch with a specially chosen winter menù, including (of course!) those puntarelle. Much chatter and wine guaranteed. The day will begin at 10.30am and lunch will conclude at about 3.30pm. Total cost, including all food and wine: 100 euros. Book here
Dietary restrictions can of course be accommodated, please mention details when booking.
At this point you might like to go off and read Agnes’s post about Monte Testaccio. Once you have done so, come back here for a recipe and – if you wish – to book the tour.
Insalata di puntarelle
Puntarelle with anchovy and lemon dressing
The mere mention of puntarelle has me shooting off on a sentimental tangent that involves my friend Alice, a trattoria in an irritatingly pretty piazza, a paper tablecloth, Pyrex glasses, a litre of hair-curling wine, a grumpy waitress, braised rabbit and a bowl of pale-green curls of gently bitter salad leaves with anchovy dressing.
I’d heard about an idiosyncratic salad from a Roman friend in London long before I moved here, of a Catalonian chicory with dandelion-like leaves called puntarelle, which, once trimmed, cut and immersed in cold water, curled in much the same way as Shirley Temple’s hair. The pale green curls are dressed with a pungent and loudly delicious dressing of anchovies, garlic, olive oil and lemon or vinegar. I ate it with Alice during the first spring I was in Rome, and neither the wine nor the waitress could spoil our delight in the puntarelle salad that we, in the proprietorial manner of new arrivals in Rome, had so happily ‘discovered’.
Twelve years later, less proprietorial and pretty comfortable about still being in Rome, I prepare puntarelle a lot during its winter- spring season. I say prepare, but curl, pulse and assemble is a better description. Some people say that the dressing should be made with a pestle and mortar, but I make mine with my stick blender – not just for speed, but because I like the more consistent, thicker dressing that a few pulses creates. I also prefer lemon juice to vinegar, as it gives the dressing a citrus-sharp but less aggressive edge. Puntarelle is becoming more widely available, but in its absence you can use frisée.
1 head puntarelle or frisée
1 garlic clove
4 – 8 anchovy fillets packed in oil, drained
1 teaspoon lemon juice or red-wine vinegar 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
To prepare the puntarelle: holding the whole head, pull away the dark green external leaves. Separate the individual tube-like stalks and pull off any dark green leaves. Cut away the tough lower part of each stalk, then cut the tubes in half lengthways and then each half into strips about 3 mm wide. Rinse the strips under cold water, then immerse them in a bowl of iced water for 30 minutes, or until they curl. Once curled, drain and dry thoroughly.
To prepare the frisée: discard the tough outer leaves (or use them for soup), then wash and carefully dry the paler inner leaves. Tear the leaves into bite-size pieces.
Peel the garlic, then cut it in half and remove the green shoot, if there is one. Pound the garlic in a pestle and mortar, then add the anchovy fillets and grind to a rough paste. Stir in the lemon juice or vinegar and then the olive oil. If you’re using a stick blender or small food processor, blend all the ingredients until they form a textured dressing. If not, just blend the ingredients in the pestle and mortar.
Tip the leaves into a bowl or serving dish, pour over the dressing, toss to coat evenly and serve immediately.
(recipe extract from my book Five Quarters. Second and last picture of Testaccio market by my photographer in crime Nick Seaton)
25 responses to “Pots and Puntarelle: a one-off tour of Testaccio with Agnes Crawford and Rachel Roddy on Wednesday 6th December.”
I wish xxx
another time x
I wish I could be there too Rachel but second best is to read your blog. I love both of your books and so do my three daughters each of whom now has copies. Can’t wait for the next one. A presto, spero…
thanks Bing, thanks too for a family full of support. looking forward to the day we meet – R
Me too Rachel – current favourite of my grandson Luca is your Ricotta, Olive oil and Lemon cake (from one of your Guardian articles) meanwhile I’m having ‘Save-your-life garlic soup’ for supper by another of my favourite cookery writers, hardly known in the UK, David Tanis. All the best, Bing
Maybe the next one, Rachel. Meanwhile I am re-reading your books.
Teeth gnashing! Staying in Testaccio ..my 5th visit. Always loved your blog so when I saw this I drooled. Damn…In Cortona..the only 2 day trip this year😣
such a shame, we would have loved to have had you join us, maybe your 6th visit will coinside with a spring walk. until then enjoy Cortona – R
Oops….have,Love,and use your two cookbooks.
what a lovely thing to read – thank you
Would have loved to do this! Came to your first day at Otter Farm, it would have been super to experience Rome with you. Too short notice for me, looking after grandchildren whilst daughter celebrates birthday. Don’t let this be the only one, a wonderful experience to see Testaccio through the eyes of a resident.
Keep writing, we love it, the second book was as beautiful as the first and sits on my coffee table – to look at and to use. Xx
Hello Judith, hope you are well? I have such good memories of that first day, and how patient you all were. another time maybe, and thank you for such kind words x
How I wish I could attend!
we wish too, another time maybe? x
Would love to come, bit short notice. Please keep us posted about the next one. Enjoying your second book even more than its tremendous forerunner.
Would love to incorporate this into a trip to rome in the future. Hopefully it went well so you can plan more 🙂
we have two dates planned, more about that very soon happy new year x
Great read thanks!!!
A quick note to say I loved your Guardian piece on Christmas – I will be trying your Beans and Bacon soon. Best wishes for the coming year. And a question: Will you be offering course in 2018? Best, Richard
so glad, and yes we will be doing two writing courses this year, more later this week, happy new year R
Well, it took me a while, but the trotter stock is on and the beans are simmering. Will let you know how it turns out. Having a blast with it. All the best, Richard
Hey guys I live in Roma so look me up next time….
mmm beans and bacon. may have use turkey instead of pork though! https://allsocial.com/italianfood
Hi Rachel, I have been reading through your blog about Rome. Visiting after 8 years and so excited to eat well. I will be there 27-31st Dec. Any chance you’ve got anything going on then? I contacted the folks at Latteria Studios where you also teach but looks like the dates are all wrong. If you know of anything fun and enriching happening around then, I’m all ears. Best, Shaheen
Hi Shaheen, there are no lessons at that time as we are all away. If you do come back please get in touch; I have also just put up a blog post with all the lessons on it – have a great trip, best R